Pescado de Veracruz

Fish in the style of Veracruz (Mexico) is often red snapper, but can really be pretty much anything you like. I bought swordfish, which is excellent, but not something I'd do very often. For one thing, the FDA and the EPA have mercury advisories for children and women of childbearing age, but all of us should limit our consumption of very large fish, because they have increasingly high levels of mercury in them. Also, if you care about the environment, overfishing and bycatch, then swordfish currently rates "Be Careful" on the National Audobon Society's seafood lover's guide. According to the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch Program, swordfish is a better choice than fish on their "avoid" list, but still has concerns. Check the lists often, because they change. You can print little cards to carry in your wallet when you're at the store or ordering in a restaurant.

The sauce is what gives Pescado de Veracruz its style and flavor. Tomatoes, onion, garlic, chiles, olives (green and/or ripe), and capers. I often use a cheating method that Dottie the fish demonstrator at Central Market taught me. I buy a small container of CM Salsa Fresca. It's very similar to the salsa fresca at Chuys. Then I add capers and olives and let the fish simmer in it until it's done.

Traditionally, Pescado de Veracruz would be served over rice, with beans on the side. But you know, we have this "thang" going on with garlic bread.

• Pescado de Veracruz
• Sourdough Bread with Sauteed Garlic Butter (Fine Cooking #43, pp. 48-49)